Portvila Food Culture
Traditional dishes, dining customs, and culinary experiences
Culinary Culture
Port Vila's food culture is defined by the harmonious blend of Melanesian traditions, French culinary sophistication, and abundant Pacific seafood and tropical produce. The city offers everything from authentic earth-oven cooked island feasts to French patisseries, with fresh coconut, root vegetables, and reef fish forming the foundation of local cuisine.
Traditional Dishes
Must-try local specialties that define Portvila's culinary heritage
Laplap (Lap Lap)
Vanuatu's national dish, laplap is a hearty pudding made from grated root vegetables (typically manioc, yam, or taro) mixed with coconut cream and wrapped in banana leaves with meat, fish, or flying fox. It's traditionally cooked in an underground earth oven (lovo) for several hours until it develops a unique cake-like texture with a slightly smoky flavor.
Laplap has been the centerpiece of ni-Vanuatu feasts for centuries, with each island having its own variation. The name comes from the slapping sound made when preparing the starch mixture. It remains the most important ceremonial dish for weddings, celebrations, and traditional gatherings.
Tuluk (Coconut Crab)
The prized coconut crab, one of the world's largest land crustaceans, is grilled or cooked in coconut cream. The meat is sweet, rich, and remarkably tender, with a flavor reminiscent of both crab and coconut. This delicacy is becoming increasingly rare and expensive due to overharvesting.
Coconut crabs have been hunted in Vanuatu for generations, traditionally reserved for special occasions and important guests. The crabs climb coconut palms to feed on the nuts, which gives their meat its distinctive flavor.
Poulet Fish (Poisson Cru)
Fresh raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut cream with diced vegetables like tomatoes, cucumber, and onions. The citrus 'cooks' the fish while the coconut cream adds richness, creating a refreshing dish perfect for the tropical climate.
This Pacific staple shows clear French Polynesian influence and has become a beloved lunch dish in Port Vila. It demonstrates the French influence on Vanuatu's seafood preparation while maintaining Pacific island flavors.
Island Cabbage (Bok Choy) in Coconut Cream
Fresh island cabbage (actually Chinese bok choy, which thrives in Vanuatu) cooked in rich coconut cream, often with garlic and sometimes small pieces of beef or chicken. The dish is creamy, comforting, and showcases the importance of coconut in ni-Vanuatu cooking.
While bok choy was introduced to Vanuatu relatively recently, it has been enthusiastically adopted into local cuisine and is now called 'island cabbage.' It grows prolifically and has become a staple green vegetable in traditional cooking.
Santo Beef
Grass-fed beef from Espiritu Santo island, typically grilled or prepared as steak. The beef is renowned throughout the Pacific for its quality, tenderness, and flavor, raised on the lush pastures of Vanuatu's largest island.
Cattle ranching was introduced during colonial times and has flourished on Santo's expansive grasslands. Santo beef has become a point of pride for Vanuatu and is exported throughout the region.
Simboro (Saksak)
A dense, chewy pancake made from sago palm starch mixed with coconut cream and sometimes banana, wrapped in leaves and cooked. It has a unique glutinous texture and mildly sweet flavor that's an acquired taste for visitors.
Simboro represents ancient Melanesian food preparation methods, as sago palms have been harvested for their starch for thousands of years. The labor-intensive process of extracting sago makes this an increasingly rare traditional food.
Grilled Reef Fish
Whole reef fish (snapper, parrotfish, or emperor) grilled over open flame or coals, often served with lime and simple seasonings to let the ultra-fresh fish flavor shine. The fish is typically caught the same day and represents the essence of Pacific island dining.
Fishing has sustained Vanuatu's coastal communities for millennia. The simple preparation method honors the quality of the catch and remains the most popular way to enjoy reef fish throughout the islands.
Bougna
A traditional packet of taro, yam, or manioc combined with chicken, fish, or flying fox, wrapped in banana leaves with coconut cream and herbs, then cooked in the earth oven. Each packet is an individual serving, making it the perfect portable feast food.
Bougna is the traditional method for cooking individual portions at large gatherings, with each family member receiving their own leaf-wrapped packet. The technique ensures even cooking and infuses the food with aromatic banana leaf flavor.
Nalot (Taro Leaves in Coconut Cream)
Young taro leaves cooked slowly in coconut cream until tender, creating a spinach-like dish with rich, creamy texture. Often prepared with onions and sometimes small pieces of meat or seafood for added flavor.
Taro has been cultivated in Vanuatu for over 3,000 years, and using the leaves ensures no part of this precious plant goes to waste. The dish showcases traditional ni-Vanuatu resourcefulness and love of coconut cream.
Fresh Tropical Fruit Platter
An abundant selection of Vanuatu's incredible tropical fruits: pawpaw (papaya), pineapple, banana, passionfruit, mango, soursop, and the prized island grapefruit. The fruit is exceptionally sweet and flavorful due to volcanic soil and tropical climate.
While not a traditional 'dish,' the abundance and quality of Vanuatu's tropical fruit is legendary. Many varieties grow semi-wild, and the fruit is a daily part of ni-Vanuatu diet and hospitality.
Coconut Bread
Sweet bread made with fresh coconut cream, giving it a moist, tender crumb and subtle coconut flavor. Often sold as individual rolls or loaves, it's popular for breakfast or as a snack throughout the day.
This represents the fusion of European bread-making techniques with abundant local coconut, creating a uniquely Vanuatu staple that's found in every bakery and market.
Kava
While technically a drink rather than food, kava is central to ni-Vanuatu culture. This mildly narcotic beverage is made from the ground roots of the kava plant mixed with water, producing an earthy, slightly numbing drink consumed at nakamals (kava bars) in the evening.
Kava has been used in Vanuatu for thousands of years in ceremonies, social gatherings, and daily relaxation. Port Vila has dozens of nakamals where locals gather at dusk to drink kava and socialize, often with simple food available.
Taste Portvila's Best Flavors
A food tour is the fastest way to find good spots. Sample traditional dishes and learn from guides who know the neighborhood.
Browse Food ToursDining Etiquette
Dining etiquette in Port Vila is generally relaxed and casual, reflecting the laid-back island lifestyle. However, understanding local customs shows respect for ni-Vanuatu culture and enhances your dining experience. The French colonial influence means some upscale establishments maintain more formal European dining standards, while traditional settings and local eateries are wonderfully informal.
Greetings and Hospitality
Ni-Vanuatu people are exceptionally warm and welcoming. A friendly greeting goes a long way, and if invited to someone's home for a meal, it's considered a great honor. Sharing food is central to Vanuatu culture, and refusing food can be seen as impolite.
Do
- Greet staff with a smile and 'halo' (hello in Bislama)
- Accept food offerings graciously when visiting homes or cultural events
- Try a bit of everything at island feasts to show appreciation
- Compliment the food and thank your hosts
Don't
- Don't refuse food without a good reason at traditional gatherings
- Don't rush through meals at cultural events—they're social occasions
- Don't be overly loud or boisterous in local eateries
Dress Code
Port Vila dining is casual, but modesty is appreciated. While beachwear is fine at beachfront restaurants during the day, most ni-Vanuatu dress modestly. Upscale restaurants may expect smart casual attire in the evening, though rarely require formal dress.
Do
- Wear casual, comfortable clothing to most restaurants
- Cover up appropriately when leaving beach areas
- Opt for smart casual at upscale establishments
- Bring a light cover-up for air-conditioned restaurants
Don't
- Don't wear swimwear or very revealing clothing away from the beach
- Don't wear overly formal attire—Port Vila is relaxed
- Don't go shirtless or barefoot in restaurants
Kava Etiquette
Visiting a nakamal (kava bar) is a unique cultural experience with specific customs. Kava is traditionally drunk in one gulp from a coconut shell, and there are unwritten rules about behavior. Tourists are welcome but should be respectful of this important cultural tradition.
Do
- Drink your shell of kava in one continuous gulp
- Spit after drinking if needed—it's acceptable
- Remain quiet and respectful—nakamals are peaceful places
- Wait your turn and don't rush the experience
- Ask permission before taking photos
Don't
- Don't bring alcohol to a nakamal
- Don't be loud or rowdy—kava culture is contemplative
- Don't refuse a shell if offered by a local—it's considered rude
- Don't take photos of people without asking first
Table Manners
Table manners vary depending on the setting. French-influenced restaurants follow European conventions, while traditional settings are more relaxed. At island feasts, food is often eaten with hands, which is perfectly acceptable and traditional.
Do
- Use utensils at formal restaurants
- Eat with your hands at traditional feasts if others do
- Wait for everyone to be served before eating at formal dinners
- Pace yourself at buffets and island nights
Don't
- Don't waste food—take only what you'll eat
- Don't start eating before your host at traditional gatherings
- Don't criticize unfamiliar foods openly
Breakfast
Breakfast is typically served from 6:30-9:00 AM. Locals often have simple breakfasts of bread, fruit, and coffee. Hotels serve full breakfasts, while bakeries open early for fresh baguettes and coconut bread. It's a light meal before the heat of the day.
Lunch
Lunch runs from 12:00-2:00 PM and is often the main meal for locals, who may have a substantial cooked meal. Restaurants get busy, especially those near offices. Many local eateries offer daily specials featuring traditional dishes at this time. The French influence means some establishments close for an extended lunch break.
Dinner
Dinner service typically begins around 6:00 PM and runs until 9:00 or 10:00 PM. Locals often eat earlier, around 6:00-7:00 PM, while tourists dine later. Many ni-Vanuatu visit nakamals for kava before or after dinner. Island night cultural shows with buffet dinners usually start around 6:30 PM and are popular weekly events.
Tipping Guide
Restaurants: Tipping is not traditionally expected or practiced in Vanuatu. Service charges are usually included in the bill at hotels and upscale restaurants. However, leaving 5-10% for exceptional service is appreciated but never required.
Cafes: No tipping expected. Rounding up the bill or leaving small change is a nice gesture but not necessary.
Bars: Tipping is not customary. Buying a drink for friendly bartenders is more culturally appropriate than tipping.
Vanuatu has no tipping culture, and staff are paid accordingly. If you want to show appreciation, a sincere thank you and compliment mean more than money. Some upscale establishments catering to international tourists may have tip jars, but these are optional. At nakamals, tipping would be considered odd.
Street Food
Port Vila doesn't have an extensive street food scene in the traditional sense of food carts lining busy streets, but it offers something equally authentic: market stalls, mobile vendors, and roadside stands selling freshly prepared local foods. The Port Vila Market is the heart of this casual dining scene, where vendors sell everything from fresh tropical fruits to hot meals prepared on-site. You'll find mobile food trucks near the waterfront and popular beaches, particularly on weekends, serving grilled items and snacks. The nakamal culture also provides an informal eating experience, with many kava bars offering simple, inexpensive food alongside the traditional drink. The best 'street food' experiences happen at the market early in the morning or during special events and festivals. Look for vendors selling coconut bread, grilled fish, fresh fruit salads, and simple plate lunches of rice with curry or stew. Weekend afternoons see food trucks and BBQ setups near Erakor Lagoon and popular beaches. While the selection isn't as diverse as in Asian cities, what's available is authentic, affordable, and gives genuine insight into how locals eat daily.
Market Plate Lunch
A hearty plate of rice or root vegetables topped with curry chicken, beef stew, or fish in coconut cream, served from market stalls. Simple, filling, and authentically local, often eaten with a spoon from a takeaway container.
Port Vila Market food stalls, particularly busy during lunch hours on weekdays
300-500 VT (approximately 2.50-4.50 USD)Fresh Coconut
Young green coconuts opened with a machete, served with a straw to drink the refreshing water, then split open so you can scrape out the soft, jelly-like flesh. Perfectly natural and hydrating in the tropical heat.
Market vendors, beach vendors, roadside stands throughout the city
100-150 VT (approximately 0.90-1.30 USD)Grilled Fish on a Stick
Small whole fish or fish pieces marinated and grilled over charcoal, served on a stick for easy eating. Simple seasoning lets the fresh fish flavor shine through with a lovely smoky char.
Weekend food trucks near beaches, occasional market vendors, special events
200-400 VT (approximately 1.80-3.50 USD)Fresh Fruit Salad
Chopped tropical fruits (papaya, pineapple, watermelon, banana) served in a cup or bag, sometimes with a squeeze of lime. Incredibly refreshing and showcases the quality of local produce.
Port Vila Market, beach vendors, mobile fruit stands
150-250 VT (approximately 1.30-2.20 USD)Coconut Bread
Sweet, moist bread rolls made with coconut cream, sold fresh from bakeries and market vendors. Perfect for breakfast or a snack, often still warm in the morning.
Market bakery stalls, small bakeries throughout town, mobile vendors
50-100 VT per roll (approximately 0.45-0.90 USD)BBQ Chicken or Beef Skewers
Marinated meat grilled over charcoal with island spices, served on skewers. Popular weekend food from mobile BBQ setups, perfect with a cold drink.
Weekend food trucks, beach areas, special events and festivals
200-350 VT (approximately 1.80-3.00 USD)Best Areas for Street Food
Port Vila Market
Known for: Fresh produce, prepared local foods, coconut bread, fruit salads, and plate lunches. The authentic heart of local food culture with dozens of vendors.
Best time: Early morning (6:00-9:00 AM) for freshest produce and breakfast items; lunchtime (12:00-1:30 PM) for hot meals
Waterfront and Nambawan Cafe Area
Known for: Mobile food trucks and vendors serving grilled items, snacks, and drinks, particularly on weekends and during cruise ship arrivals.
Best time: Weekends from 11:00 AM onwards; busiest when cruise ships are in port
Erakor Lagoon and Beach Areas
Known for: Weekend BBQ setups, food trucks, and beach vendors selling coconuts, fruit, and grilled seafood in a relaxed beach setting.
Best time: Saturday and Sunday afternoons (12:00-5:00 PM)
Nakamal Neighborhoods (Seaside and Nambatu)
Known for: Informal food at kava bars—simple grilled items, island cabbage, and snacks to accompany kava drinking in the evening.
Best time: Late afternoon to evening (4:00-8:00 PM) when nakamals are active
Dining by Budget
Port Vila offers dining options across all budget ranges, though it's important to note that as an island nation importing many goods, prices can be higher than mainland destinations. Local, traditional foods offer the best value, while imported ingredients and upscale dining come at premium prices. The Vanuatu Vatu (VT) is the local currency, with approximately 115-120 VT to 1 USD. Most restaurants accept credit cards, but markets and small eateries are cash-only.
Budget-Friendly
Typical meal: 300-800 VT per meal (approximately 2.50-7 USD)
- Shop at Port Vila Market for the freshest, cheapest produce and prepared foods
- Eat where locals eat—if it's busy with ni-Vanuatu, it's good value
- Buy tropical fruit from market vendors or roadside stands instead of supermarkets
- Lunch specials at local restaurants offer better value than dinner
- Carry cash in small denominations for market purchases
- Avoid restaurants in tourist zones and hotels for significant savings
- Buy fresh baguettes in the morning and make your own sandwiches
- Drink local water (safe from taps in Port Vila) instead of buying bottled
Mid-Range
Typical meal: 1,000-2,500 VT per meal (approximately 9-22 USD)
Splurge
Dietary Considerations
Port Vila is reasonably accommodating for various dietary needs, though options are more limited than in larger international cities. The traditional ni-Vanuatu diet is naturally rich in vegetables, fruits, and root crops, making vegetarian options relatively easy to find. However, veganism, specific allergies, and religious dietary requirements require more planning. Communication can be straightforward as many staff speak English, and the laid-back island atmosphere means restaurants are usually willing to accommodate requests when possible.
Vegetarian & Vegan
Vegetarian options are readily available, as many traditional dishes can be prepared without meat. Coconut cream-based vegetable dishes, fresh tropical fruits, and root vegetables are staples. Vegan options are more challenging since coconut cream (which is vegan) is used extensively, but eggs and dairy also appear in many dishes. Upscale restaurants and cafes catering to tourists are most likely to understand and accommodate vegan requests.
Local options: Island cabbage in coconut cream (request without meat), Laplap made with vegetables only, Nalot (taro leaves in coconut cream), Fresh tropical fruit platters, Grilled or steamed root vegetables (taro, yam, manioc), Coconut bread (check for eggs/dairy), Fresh salads with tropical fruits and vegetables, Stir-fried vegetables at Chinese restaurants
- Learn the Bislama phrase 'Mi no kakae mit' (I don't eat meat) for local eateries
- Specify 'no fish sauce' and 'no oyster sauce' at Asian restaurants if vegan
- Port Vila Market offers abundant fresh produce for self-catering
- Ask if dishes contain beef or chicken stock, as it's commonly used
- French-style cafes often have vegetarian quiche, salads, and vegetable sides
- Confirm coconut cream is used instead of dairy cream in traditional dishes
- Many pizza places can prepare vegetarian options
- Indian restaurants (limited in Port Vila) offer the most vegetarian variety
Food Allergies
Common allergens: Coconut (ubiquitous in local cuisine), Seafood and shellfish (very common), Peanuts (used in some Asian dishes), Soy sauce (common in Chinese and fusion cooking), Eggs (in baked goods and some preparations), Dairy (less common in traditional food but present in Western dishes)
English is widely spoken in Port Vila restaurants, making allergy communication easier than in many Pacific destinations. However, for serious allergies, write down your restrictions and show staff. Be very clear about severity. Upscale restaurants and hotels are most experienced with allergy requests. Be aware that cross-contamination may occur in small kitchens, and ingredient knowledge may be limited at budget eateries. When in doubt, stick to simple, whole foods from the market.
Useful phrase: In Bislama: 'Mi gat problem wetem...' (I have a problem with...). However, English is usually understood: 'I am allergic to [ingredient]. Can this dish be made without it?'
Halal & Kosher
Port Vila has very limited halal and no certified kosher options. There is no significant Muslim or Jewish community, so dedicated restaurants don't exist. However, fresh seafood, fruits, vegetables, and eggs are readily available. Some vegetarian dishes at Indian restaurants may be suitable. The lack of pork in traditional ni-Vanuatu cuisine is helpful.
Self-catering from Port Vila Market is the most reliable option. Fresh fish, vegetables, and fruits allow you to prepare meals meeting religious requirements. Some hotels may accommodate requests with advance notice. Vegetarian restaurants and simple grilled fish or vegetable dishes at local eateries can work. Contact hotels before arrival to discuss specific needs.
Gluten-Free
Gluten-free eating is moderately easy in Port Vila since traditional ni-Vanuatu cuisine is based on root vegetables (taro, yam, manioc) rather than wheat. However, awareness of celiac disease is limited, and cross-contamination is possible. Imported gluten-free specialty products are rare and expensive when available.
Naturally gluten-free: Laplap (made from root vegetables, not wheat), Grilled fresh fish with vegetables, Bougna (root vegetables in banana leaves), Island cabbage in coconut cream, Fresh tropical fruits, Grilled or roasted root vegetables (taro, yam, manioc), Poisson cru (raw fish in coconut cream), Nalot (taro leaves), Plain grilled meat or seafood, Fresh salads (request no croutons)
Food Markets
Experience local food culture at markets and food halls
Port Vila Market (Main Market)
The vibrant heart of Port Vila's food scene, this bustling market features dozens of vendors selling fresh tropical produce, island vegetables, prepared foods, coconut bread, and local crafts. The colorful displays of fruits and vegetables, the aroma of cooking food, and the friendly vendors create an authentic ni-Vanuatu experience. It's the best place to see and taste local ingredients and traditional foods.
Best for: Fresh tropical fruits (papaya, pineapple, bananas, passionfruit), root vegetables (taro, yam, manioc), island cabbage, coconut bread, plate lunches, fresh coconuts, local coffee, and experiencing authentic local food culture. Also excellent for people-watching and photography.
Monday-Saturday, 6:00 AM-5:00 PM (busiest and best selection in the morning, 6:00-10:00 AM). Particularly vibrant on Saturday mornings. Closed Sundays.
Seaside Market (Weekend Market)
A smaller, more relaxed market near the seafront that operates on weekends. It has a more local feel than the main market, with vendors from nearby islands bringing fresh produce, handicrafts, and some prepared foods. Less touristy and a nice spot for weekend morning shopping.
Best for: Fresh produce, local crafts, a more laid-back market experience, and interacting with outer island vendors who bring in specialty items. Good for fresh fruit and vegetables if you miss the main market's morning rush.
Saturday and Sunday mornings, approximately 7:00 AM-12:00 PM, weather permitting
Au Bon Marché Supermarket
While not a traditional market, this French-owned supermarket is worth mentioning as it stocks both local produce and imported specialty items. The deli section, bakery, and wine selection reflect French influence, and it's useful for self-catering or finding familiar products.
Best for: Imported cheeses, wines, French bread and pastries, packaged goods, some local produce, and items for self-catering. Air-conditioned shopping experience with fixed prices.
Monday-Saturday, approximately 7:30 AM-6:00 PM; Sunday mornings with reduced hours. Check current hours as they vary.
LCM (Le Centre Commercial) Market
A covered market area with various vendors selling fresh produce, meat, fish, and some prepared foods. More protected from weather than the open-air main market, it's popular with locals doing daily shopping.
Best for: Fresh fish and seafood, meat (including Santo beef), daily produce shopping, and a more local shopping experience away from tourist areas.
Monday-Saturday, approximately 6:00 AM-5:00 PM, with best selection in the mornings
Seasonal Eating
Port Vila's tropical climate means fresh produce is available year-round, but there are distinct wet and dry seasons that affect what's abundant and when. The dry season (May-October) is cooler and sees peak tourist season, while the wet season (November-April) brings intense tropical heat, occasional cyclones, and different produce. Seafood availability can vary with weather conditions, and traditional feasts are more common during dry season months when outdoor cooking is easier. Understanding these patterns helps you enjoy the freshest, most affordable ingredients during your visit.
Dry Season (May-October)
- Peak season for tourism and cultural events with more frequent island night feasts
- Excellent weather for outdoor dining and beachfront meals
- Abundant citrus fruits, including the prized island grapefruit
- Best time for fishing and most reliable fresh seafood availability
- Mangoes at their peak (especially September-October)
- Ideal conditions for earth oven (lovo) cooking at traditional feasts
- More food trucks and beach vendors operating regularly
Wet Season (November-April)
- Abundant tropical fruits including lychees, rambutans, and breadfruit
- Root vegetables (taro, yam) at their best and most affordable
- Passionfruit in abundance, appearing in juices and desserts
- Papaya and pineapple particularly sweet and plentiful
- More indoor dining due to afternoon rain showers
- Fewer tourists mean better prices at local eateries
- Avocados in season (December-March)
- Some seafood varieties less available due to rough seas